Photographer Simon – Talent Edward Bodenham – Interview by Marco Martello
First things first, what’s your earliest memory of perfume?
I remember being in a pushchair and smelling these amazing scents coming from the right hand side. We must have been near the woods, and I think it must have been raining quite recently. So, it was a combination: there was this wonderful smell of the woods with this incredible scent of the rain. Every now and again, I’ll be somewhere and get that smell, which takes me right back to that memory. Maybe, one of these days I’ll try and recreate it in a Floris perfume. In terms of actual fragrances, I remember when my father in those days used to have a suitcase, which I’d go and smell, as it had this amazing combination of all the scents he’d been working on at the perfumery in Jermyn Street.
Edward, you’re the Perfume Director of Floris, a brand that’s been around since 1730. What gives you the most satisfaction in your job? And what are the challenges you find the most difficult?
The most satisfaction I get, is when I sit down with the perfumery team, have a smelling session and try some different materials. And when I get to meet our customers, that’s also nice! Our offices are in what used to be the family home, above and below the shop, and so I’m always walking through the store and chit-chatting with customers. As to the second question, the part of the business that I don’t enjoy, is anything that has to do with numbers (Laughs, E.D.).
Taking a step back, do you remember what you felt like when you entered the brand’s store on Jermyn Street in London for the first time?
I felt very excited. Back in those days everything was laid two floors below Jermyn Street, and before I even got in, I smelt these incredible scents wafting up. There really was this kind of added excitement before you entered the shop. I also remember the team were always so lovely and welcoming. The whole thing was such an exciting experience.
Nicola Pozzani, who’s here with you, works as an in-house bespoke perfumer for the Floris brand. Can you share with us the story of how the two of you first met?
Nicola and I first met in Belgravia, London. Back then we had a shop on Ebury Street, which we used a lot for our bespoke service. I remember that we sat down and Nicola showed me a perfume he’d worked on, a very green fragrance. It was such a lovely experience. In fact, I asked Nicola right away when he could start.
You’re about to launch “Purple Mémoire”, a perfume that’s built around lavender, cocoa and coriander. Lavender is not an easy choice, as it’s often perceived as ‘dated’. Was it a long process to find the right mix of ingredients and bring this old-fashioned note into the modern day?
It was probably a six-month process, so not too long. Both myself and Penny, our perfumer, love lavender and were excited at the prospect of creating a lavender fragrance with a modern twist, that’s given by a gourmand note. You know, it’s always so exciting, working on a new fragrance, to be able to put it alongside the ones that are 300 years old. Anyhow, we were inspired by this old photo album we’d occasionally look through. It’s about the family home on the outskirts of London, which used to be called ‘dear old Ivy Lodge’. We tried to recreate the comfort of this home where 16 children grew up in: from the lavender in the garden to all the cakes that were baked there.
Edward, what’s one Floris perfume that brings a smile to your face because of the memories, emotions and sensations it evokes?
Probably the most I’d say is ‘Elite’, because it’s the one my grandfather used to wear. It always reminds me of him, and also because it has this smokiness to it from the vetiver and birch leaves, I always find it quite funny thinking about when I used to visit him and all the offices smelt of the cigars he’d smoke and then put in the ashtray on his desk. I still love that smell, and it makes me think about how things have changed but also stayed the same in a way. I have so many memories with my grandfather that I still carry in my heart, you know? He was a very warm, kind, and jovial character, and every time I’d get to the shop, he’d spend time with me, pointing out different ingredients and things.
The brand’s customers include film stars, fashion designers and, of course, the British Royal Family. What’s the oddest, or funniest, request you’ve ever received?
One of the most memorable visits was when John Galliano walked in. Of course it was unexpected, you never know who’ll enter the shop at Floris. He actually wanted to visit the perfumery, and it was amazing to meet someone so nice, friendly, and just generally curious. On that day, Nicola made a fragrance for him that was worn by Oscar Wilde back in the day.
Floris doesn’t offer perfumes only, but also beauty products, such as bath essence, shaving cream and fragrance powder, that are the symbol of traditions that’ve been passed down from generation to generation. What’s your relationship with tradition like? Are you one for dwelling on the past?
I like to embrace the present, don’t get me wrong, but I also like to keep up a tradition and have enormous respect for the past. As they say, sometimes the old ways are the best ways!
Let’s now talk about one of today’s hot topics. What do you think about the use of AI in the perfume industry?
I’m sort of a bit old-school, I guess. I’m sure it can have its uses, but it just scares me (Laughs, E.D.). I’ve spoken to lots of people and they find it quite useful, but I just prefer a more traditional approach, whether it’s in perfume, music, or literature. I also think the way we do things is very different and people quite like this kind of aesthetic coming to such an old perfumery and having this personal interaction, which I don’t think you can ever recreate. Once again it’s probably not for us at the moment, but I’m sure there can be lots of benefits in other settings.
Looking ahead, what would you like to be remembered for?
That’s a tough question! I just hope that I’ve brought joy to lots of people. You can’t ask for more, really. In fact, knowing that people have had a nice experience coming to our shop and wearing our fragrances fills my heart with joy.